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Angel’s Boulder – February 4, 2012



To tell you the truth, I haven’t had much experience bouldering outdoors… probably not even double digits yet, haha. However, whenever there is a chance to learn from the professionals (e.g., Matt lutey, Matt Rimroth, Nick Testa, and Phil Langford, etc.), I quickly seize the opportunity.


A fairly new site called “Angel’s boulder,” has been getting some recent attention from local boulderer enthusiasts, particularly those who frequent the Volcanic Rock Gym in Waipio.


It’s located near Kaena Point, just after the end of Dillingham Highway… with the swath up to the site beginning a couple hundred yards into the unpaved road.


Receiving an invite by Matt Lutey, I packed up my climbing shoes, beer and photography gear for the North Shore.


Upon arrival, the climbing had already commenced, although there were still some climbers warming up. Here, Matt Lutey cleans a starting hold for Nick on one of the more difficult traverses called, “Peanut Butter, No Jelly” (left). Nick on the ridiculous sit-start variation, which is ~rated V9 (right).


One of the “lower-rated” problems on the right side of the boulder (while facing Mauka), “Hot Sauce,” is rated V4 (I think). Nick getting over the lip (left) and Matt Lutey sit-starting (right).


Matt later sending on a separate attempt.


Series photo for the near-full sequence and send on “Hot Sauce,” by Matt Rimroth.


A slightly more difficult problem (~V5), called “Chuck E Cheese Grater than I,” is located at the front/center of the boulder… Matt Rimroth attempting a tight mantle near the start, which tops out directly above the start.


“Chocolate, No Milk…,” another traverse, is rated at V6(+). Phil (left) and Matt Rimroth (right), crossing over and heal-hooking near the start, respectively.


The problem begins from a sitting position, similar to “Hot Sauce,” though follows the lip to the center of the boulder and tops out similarly to “Chuck E Cheese Grater than I.”


Here’s a series photo of the near-full sequence and send by Matt Lutey.


The most difficult problem on Angel’s boulder (and possibly on the island) is a V10-V14, which goes up a sloping arete near the center… Phil’s on the start (above). It hasn’t been sent yet to my knowledge, but I hear names floating around since it’s a move or two away from completion.


After several more attempts by the guys, it was time to pack up and head out… particularly since Matt Lutey’s crashpads were needed as part of an epic slackline set up tied between two SUVs. lol.


If you want see these climbers in action or learn more about bouldering, check out the Volcanic Rock Gym… they’re regulars there.

Mahalo nui loa to the Matts, Nick and Phil for letting me tag along. You folks are a great inspiration to us beginners out there. Keep up the good work further developing the sport in Hawaii.

To view more posts on climbing CLICK HERE, or look at the “Climbing Photo Gallery”. To view this location on a Google Map also known as my “Adventure Map“, Click Here. For more adventures of the Lost Trailblazers, either look at my other blogposts and “Adventures with the Lost Trailblazers” photo gallery. Thanks for visiting and come back again soon!


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