Volunteer and Restoration Work with the KIRC, Kaho’olawe (Pt 1 of 4)

with contributions by Katie Ersbak

[Part 1] [Part 2] [Part 3] [Part 4][Photo Gallery]

Most people never really think about going to Kaho‘olawe… Mainly because much of the island had been obliterated by the navy over the period of several decades after World War II, and many believe that there is nowhere to walk on the island that will not get one blown up. In addition, the lack of lush vegetation, surface water and mountainous views we adventurers tend to seek while traveling to the outer island are somewhat absent. Access to the island is also restricted to Native Hawaiian cultural groups such as the Protect Kaho‘olawe ‘Ohana (PKO) for spiritual and subsistence purposes, restoration work, or scientific research. Therefore opportunities to get on the island are few and far between. Thankfully, I was fortunate to receive an invite from Katie Ersbak, who works for the Department of Land and Natural Resources’ (DLNR) Commission on Water Resource Management (CWRM) and was granted a rare opportunity to visit the island as a volunteer, with the “Friends of DLNR.” Volunteering for the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission (KIRC) has been one of the most rewarding restoration activities I have participated in thus far and was an experience I will never forget.

After an early flight into Kahului, 20 volunteers were picked up by KIRC staff in several official vehicles. We were shuttled to a small harbor in Kīhei Boat Ramp, where we would load the pontoon-typed boat, the ʻOhua, with our gear and other supplies to the island.

Following a short safety-briefing and with our life-vests secured, we were jetting off across the ʻAlalākeiki Channel towards Kahoʻolawe.

Along with the other neighboring islands to Maui (Lānaʻi and Molokaʻi), Kahoʻolawe can be easily seen from Maui on a clear day. The entire island of Kahoʻolawe actually was an ahupuaʻa within the Maui district of Honuaʻula.

Passing around the north side of the island, we all were in good spirits as we approached home base in “Honokanai‘a,” on the south western tip and ʻili (smaller land division within an ahupuaʻa) of Kealaikahiki.

After no more than an hour, the crew was getting ready to land on the beach. The rest of us were ready to chant our ʻoli to ask for permission to land on the island. The Mele Komo is used to ask permission to enter the Reserve. Similarly, the Ke Noi ʻAʻama is used to ask for permission to leave and return home.

We were earlier told that the surf here can be considerably rough while landing and that we were fortunate that it was calm day.

During rough conditions, the boat cannot land and the crew must swim into shore with their gear.

Sometimes the crew and volunteers must form a chain, passing the gear from person to person, and into pick up trucks on the beach.

However during calm conditions, the RTVs are able to drive directly onto the boat deck to help unload the bulkier supplies.

The loaded gear and supplies are then driven up the beach to camp, where we were then allowed to unpack and get settled in to our cabins.

I was surprised by some of our accommodations; soft beds with clean linens were readily available, as well as hot showers… My two most important requests while doing fieldwork, haha.

The kitchen and mess hall were also quite impressive… even more so since we would be eating in an air conditioned room and could watch TV.

The option of eating outdoors in the absence of a television was also available,

…and obviously preferred by some.

Regrouping outside of our cabins, we were allowed to more formally introduce ourselves to each other.

We were also given a more formal safety briefing about ordinance, since an eclectic display / diorama of excavated examples was located just next to our cabin.

Shortly afterward, we loaded up the trucks for an excursion to get more familiarized with Kahoʻolawe, and do some replanting of native plants on the northern side of the island known as Hakioawa.

The trucks were a little rough around the edges, but we would soon grow to love them. The duallies had bench seats in the back, whereas some of the other trucks were mainly for transporting equipment.

Heading north from camp, we were given an idea of how dry the landscape is and what little vegetation covered the island.

A small storage shed and a few composting toilets would become our common half-way / truck stop when crossing the island.

Next to the break area was one of the older native plants on the island. The Wiliwili tree (Erythrina sandwicensis) here is estimated to be ~ 200 years old.

Continuing on our tour and gaining elevation, we were welcomed by cooler temperatures and tradewinds from the northeast… not to mention more dust.

The highest point on Kaho‘olawe, Puʻu O Moaʻula Nui, was our next stop. Here Mike Nāho‘opi‘i (KIRC Executive Director) explained more about Kaho‘olawe’s climate and it’s relationship to the rain shadow of Haleakalā.

An ahu or shrine was also at this site, which was a place where ho‘okupu or offerings were made for rain. We were told that there is an identical shrine located directly across the channel at ‘Ulupalakua on Maui. The two shrines were built to call back the cloud bridge that once existed between Maui and Kaho‘olawe.

Out to the most eastern point was Lae ʻO Hālona… unfortunately I forgot what was said about this area, but that’s what happens when I end up waiting too long to write up blog entries. >_< I just remember that a lot of coastal debris from Maui consolidates here, as the currents carry them across the channel.
Our next destination was lower down the mountain side, to one of the restoration sites.

Here, we would plant Pili Grass, ʻAʻaliʻi and a couple other native plants that we brought with us from Maui.

Some of the plants from previous groups were doing well,

Like this flowering ʻŌhai (Sesbania tomentosa).

Jaime Bruch, a Natural Resource Specialist for KIRC, teaches us the correct procedure to plant. First a mixture of potting soil, and what looked like perlite, was wetted and surrounded by rocks. It was interesting to learn that restoration is largely a process of trial and error. KIRC staff is constantly experimenting with new techniques in hopes of rebuilding and restoring Kaho‘olawe to its former natural state.

A combination of sedges and grasses were usually planted within each circle, with mulch placed around them to help prevent the loss of moisture.

The finished product is again wetted from jugs of water we had brought with us. The plants would later be watered by irrigation pipes we had to finish installing later on the trip.

As a reminder to visitors who visit Kahoʻolawe, these warning signs are suppose to indicate which side has been cleared of ordinance… and therefore looks like the other volunteers in the background are not where they’re supposed to be. However, this particularly warning sign was put on the wrong side, so technically I am on the wrong side… hence Ryan’s sheepish grin. Haha.

With the first day coming to a close, everyone was more than ready to head back to camp.

And by heading by to camp, I mean swimming until sunset. Lol. Just in front of our camp was a huge school of ʻōʻio (bonefish) and awa’awa (Ladyfish). I’ve never seen such a healthy nearshore fisheries in my life.

I really enjoy the idea of pau hana (or basically celebrating the end of a work day) and being able to spend time in the water, while watching the sunset.

After dinner, it was also common practice to spend time looking up at the sky. Only in very few places in Hawaii can one see so many stars without light pollution and/or heavy cloud cover. So many amazing experiences, and this was only the first day…

Mahalo nui loa and aloha no to Michael Nāho‘opi‘i and the Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission staff for sharing their mana‘o and for granting us the opportunity of a lifetime. As it stands, the Kaho‘olawe Rehabilitation Trust Fund will be depleted by 2016 – halting the restoration of Kaho‘olawe. KIRC is currently seeking to secure state and federal funding, but appreciates any and all donations, no matter how small. Please feel free to contact KIRC at the links below…

The Kaho‘olawe Island Reserve Commission (KIRC):
– KIRC on Facebook
– KIRC Website
– Volunteer Information

So stoked to meet so many people and make many new friends! More questions about Kaho‘olawe or about my experience volunteering there?!? Just ask!!! Aloha and mahalo nui for visiting… Come back again soon!